John Constantinou of Walter’s Steakhouse has created a memorable dining experience in Wilmington for more than 31 years
By Mary Ellen Mitchen
From the time I was a young man, it was an ambition of mine to have my own restaurant one day,” says John Walter Constantinou, owner-operator of Walter’s Steakhouse in Wilmington.
Such ambition is part of his DNA. His paternal grandfather was born in Turkey and forced into exile by the Turkish government in the early 1900s, because he and his family weren’t Muslim.
“The Turks threw them out with just their clothes and little else,” Constantinou reveals. “He sailed to France and then Canada before immigrating to Washington, D.C., where he found work as a cook when he was just 14-years old.”
A few years later, Constantinou’s grandfather traveled to Greece and returned to Washington with his new wife, Sophie. When the Great Depression hit in 1929, he sent Sophie and their children to live in Greece until 1934, when he brought them back and settled in Wilmington.
With what little money his grandfather had left, he opened Sophie’s Sub Shop in 1941 in the Forty Acres neighborhood at the corner of Lincoln Street and Shallcross Avenue, where Scalessa’s “My Way” Old School Italian Kitchen operates today.
In search of a better opportunity, he sold Sophie’s in 1951 and acquired the B&O Restaurant at 1616 Delaware Avenue, which became Constantinou’s House of Beef in 1959. His son George Constantinou took over and ran the famed Wilmington institution with his wife Priscilla by his side, until he retired and sold the business in 1986. Today the spot is home to Catherine Rooney’s.
The Third Generation to Succeed
John Constantinou and his four siblings grew up in the West Park neighborhood of Wilmington. While attending A.I. DuPont High School in 1973, he began working for his father, initially washing dishes and later learning to cut beef: tenderloins, top rounds, strip steaks, top butts, flank steaks and ribs.
“Back then, packing houses sold ribs to restaurants with the deckle meat, short ribs and fat cap. We had to break it down to create use for everything,” he recalls.
Constantinou met his wife Carol when they were in college at Wesley and working in the campus food service department. “Our boss introduced us,” he muses. “I was a bookkeeper, and she was a line server.”
After graduating from Wesley College, Constantinou moved to Washington, D.C., where he held culinary positions at Marriott in the contract food service division and at Beefsteak Charlie’s restaurant. In 1983, he returned to Wilmington to work for his father full-time. He and Carol married in 1986.
After his father retired, Constantinou went into real estate, with his dream of becoming a restauranteur still simmering. One memorable day in 1989 he revealed to Carol, “Some great deals have come across my desk, and I’m sure I can do this.” She gave her support, “then and always,” he says.
“As I was working to build the business, she excelled in a demanding career of her own as an ICU surgical nurse at Christiana Hospital. She works in pediatrics today.”
The couple would go on to raise three children, who also followed their passions: Two are teachers and one is a civil engineer, but they all have lent dad a hand on busy nights at Walter’s, especially on holidays.
In the early ’90s, Constantinou’s three-year search for the right location ended when a building at 802 North Union Street (on the corner of 8th and Union) in the Little Italy neighborhood became available. Formerly occupied by a restaurant called The Road House, the building offered an ideal configuration for intimate seating and an expansive bar on the main floor, with ample space for private gatherings on the second floor.
Constantinou opened Walter’s Steakhouse in 1993. The dining area offers a mix of 18 candlelit tables and booths, partially divided into three separate areas for a cozy atmosphere. With soft jazz in the background, diners can speak quietly and still be heard. One longtime guest proposed to his wife over dinner at Walter’s. She heard him the first time, and apparently, said, “Yes.”
Locally and beyond, Walters is known as a classy, old-world steakhouse, featuring prime angus beef — aged for tenderness and prepared to bring out its natural flavor.
“One thing about our beef is that it’s not heavily seasoned. We prepare our own java char-crust rub, which adds a hint of coffee flavor to the meat before cooking, and we finish with just salt and pepper,” he notes.
Diners can choose an accompanying sauce, such as bearnaise, hollandaise, and au poivre, but every steak comes with au jus, made from boiled bones and mirepoix, to “generate that hearty brown broth,” he offers.
Au poivre is a brandy cream sauce made with whole peppercorns which are pressed into the meat, which is seared with the sauce, but not everyone enjoys the experience of biting into whole peppercorns. Constantinou addressed the conundrum by offering au poivre as an optional side sauce.
These are just some of the special touches that have earned the family establishment a Best of Delaware award in the steakhouse category for too many years to tally.
Richard, a longtime Wilmington resident says, “John is a good man who wants his guests to enjoy their visit and, like his father, stops to chat at every table to ensure that each guest’s meal is prepared to their liking. The food is always delicious.”
Jill and Lee of Hockessin recently dined at Walter’s to celebrate Lee’s birthday. “I was looking forward to this night all week,” Lee says. “Not just for the amazing prime rib, but also the laid-back vibe and world-class martinis.”
Walter’s is also known for highly lauded desserts and an extensive wine list, including a broad range of California cabernets and plenty of unique, mid-priced finds as well.
From a young age, Constantinou observed the way his affable father interacted with guests. “Hospitality is about creating a meaningful experience. It also means being open to feedback, and if something is off, correcting it immediately.”
Dedication and Kindness Engender Loyalty
Walter’s serves dinner seven nights a week, from 5 to 10 p.m., and on Sundays, from 4 to 10 p.m. Constantinou typically arrives to work by noon, and doesn’t get home until well after midnight.
Many of his staff have been with him for more than a decade. His sister Gigi handles part of the bookkeeping. Chef Rick Pragg has worked at Walter’s for 18 years.
Chef Alex Sessoms enjoys expressing himself through cooking. Bartenders Geneva Gibson and Gina Taconnelli are known for their great personalities and specialty drinks.
“It’s important to me that everyone I work with has > an opportunity to use their talents,” Constantinou remarks.
His staff appreciates his kindness. According to server Samantha Deloache, “Working for John is a pleasure. When I’ve got a two-tray order, he helps carry it to my table. He’s everywhere, all the time: greeting guests, busing tables, and helping in the kitchen. He treats everyone here with kindness.”
Taconelli says she and her colleagues are like family, and many guests feel the same way about them.
Ron and Linda of Middletown recall happy memories from Constantinou’s House of Beef, where they regularly dined and became acquainted with two generations of the family. The couple has a standing date-night reservation at Walter’s every Friday night.
“Sitting in our favorite booth, it occurs to me why we’ve been coming here for 50 years, besides the amazing food and ambiance: It’s our Cheers — where everybody knows our name and treats us like family.”
Moving Forward
Constantinou has managed to prevail through the great recession in 2007, the COVID pandemic in 2020, high inflation in 2022, and many other business challenges.
“I respond by moving forward while looking for answers,” he says. This often means going for a ride in the woods on his mountain bike. “Offroad riding allows me to work on problems at the subconscious level,” he says. “The answer will often occur to me later, like in the middle of the night,” he chuckles.
“As we enter our 31st year in business, I now measure time in milestones as opposed to years. Graduations, anniversaries, birthdays — these are the special occasions we’ll remember most. And I feel good about helping people make those memories. It’s really a lot of fun.”
Above: John Constantinou (l) with long-time staffers Gina Taconnelli and Rick Pragg. Photo by Jim Coarse.