By Pam George
Delaware’s global businesses, universities and frequent travelers have upped the demand for ethnic cuisine. Undoubtedly, Asian food is a dominant flavor. However, the dining segment isn’t limited to Chinese or Japanese restaurants. The landscape is liberally laced with eateries that pay tribute to other Asian countries, and more than a few are a fusion.
Tried and True
Restaurants like Hunan Restaurant in Brandywine Hundred blazed a path. In 1982, the Branmar Plaza landmark advertised a $12.75 house special dinner, and today, specials like spicy Hunan pork are still affordable at $12.99 and come with an egg roll and white or fried rice.
Hunan now crosses borders — more on that later — with kimchi, edamame, Malaysian roti and miso soup.
The Crownery in Hockessin debuted in 1991, and News Journal critic Al Mascitti praised the Lantana Square restaurant’s full-service dining room, which was then a rarity in local Chinese establishments. He also noted that The Crownery was the second restaurant to serve dim sum. After a temporary closure, the restaurant was rechristened The New Crownery.
Okura, also in Hockessin, is dedicated to Japanese cuisine, which was hard to find in the late 1990s. Sushi is the star, but you’ll also find hot pots, tempura, teriyaki, udon and other noodle dishes.
Utage in Independence Mall was one of the first sushi restaurants in Wilmington, and when it closed, sushi chef Hideyuki Okubo and his wife, Jessie, took over and opened Takumi. The couple met in 2001 when she started working at Utage. Since she is originally from China, they added Chinese dishes to the menu. The restaurant is still in Independence Mall but plans to move a few doors down.
For years, area diners craving Thai cuisine could only find it at Bangkok House, which opened in 1988 in Wilmington’s Little Italy section. The family-owned restaurant is known for tom yum gai soup, steamed chicken dumplings and spicy entrees with little red peppers by their names.
Staying on Point
Although mixing cuisines is common, many restaurants remain focused on a niche. For proof, consider the many Chinese takeout locations close to most New Castle County-area homes. But not many make fatty beef mala soup or a casserole of pork intestines with blood pudding. For that, head to Mom’s Kitchen in Bear, which strives to bring authentic flavors to those raised with them. (There are Americanized dishes, as well)
As for Japanese cuisine, Kyoto and Sushi Yama opened to serve Japanese dishes in the early aughts, and that hasn’t changed. Kyoto in Pike Creek, for instance, offers rolls, teriyaki, and bento boxes. However, there are now curries.
Meanwhile, Sushi Yama’s name tells it like it is. Although you’ll find teriyaki and tempura, guests primarily come to the Middletown hotspot for sushi.
Sushi Sumo on Kirkwood Highway also spells out its main attraction. There are hand rolls, chef’s special rolls, sushi and sashimi (sushi incorporates vinegared rice).
In Elsmere, Sakura Japanese Restaurant is a comfortable, casual sushi spot with all-you-can-eat sushi with rolls made on demand.
At DE.CO in downtown Wilmington, food-court guests are able to order customized rolls at Al Chu’s Sushi. Of course, there are plenty of other stand-out roll options for those familiar with owner Chef Al Chu’s earlier days at Mikimotos. Poke bowls? The chef has that, too, plus appetizers and daily specials.
Regarding Korean cuisine in Delaware, many restaurants focus on barbecue. At Kalbi Asian Bistro, the barbecue includes chicken, pork, beef short ribs and other cuts, such as tongue, duck and chicken.
Korean Barbecue in Newark adds steamed pig feet, eel and calamari to the BBQ mix. The restaurant also sells hot pots, hot stews and bibimap, a Korean rice dish.
Crossing Borders
To appeal to multiple palates, some Asian restaurants feature the flavors of several different countries. For instance, Le Shio on Concord Pike in north Wilmington blends Chinese, Thai and Japanese specialties. LeShioAsianFusion.com. The same is true of Jasmine Asian Cuisine.
These Brandywine Hundred restaurants have a lounge-like panache to the décor, a trend that arguably started with Mikimotos in 2000. The brainchild of the late Darius Mansoory wowed guests with its contemporary look, cocktail bar and round sushi bar. The Wilmington restaurant is now part of Big Fish Restaurant Group, and the décor and menu have been updated. Sushi remains the star, while the entrees mine Korea, Thailand and China for inspiration.
In the Christiana area, Potstickers Asian Grill and Sushi Bar also takes creative license to appeal to multiple palates. Sushi is a main attraction, but other options include spicy Korean bulgogi, thin meat slices cooked on a grill, a Szechuan seafood medley, Indian-spiced prawns and Thai spicy beef with kaffir lime leaves.
South of China
Thailand and Vietnam are part of Southeast Asia, countries south of China, east of India and north of Australia. The Philippines, Singapore and Malaysia are also in the region, whose colorful cuisine shows the influence of Asian and Western European flavors.
In Pike Creek, Soybean Asian Grille’s menu, for instance, includes curries and “pad” (stir-fried, wok-cooked entrees with kaffir and pastry dough stuffed with chicken, onion, potato and curry powder.
Southeast Kitchen in Trolley Square covers most of the culinary bases with Thai papaya salad, pho, curries and rice and noodle bowls. Note that the restaurant moved to takeout during COVID-19 and kept that policy in place.
Rasa Sayang in Concord Mall — formerly in Independence Mall — emphasizes Malaysian and Thai cuisine, including sweet-and-sour chicken with pineapple and a flaky roti pancake with curry. Since opening, the north Wilmington restaurant has added sushi and rolls.
Pinang Asian Cuisine in Newark follows the same approach. Start with roti, move on to maki and finish with Thai red curry. PinangDe.com.
Meanwhile, Nasi Malay Thai Sushi in Bear puts a Malaysian spin on roast pork, pork chops and General Tso’s chicken. However, the restaurant also has sushi and Chinese-American favorites.
Unfortunately, the Milburn family closed Ubon in Wilmington. However, Wit Milburn’s Kapow Kitchen in Booths Corner Farmers Market and his food truck are still serving creative takes on Thai and Pacific Rim dishes, including spicy panang — a creamy curry — kimchi tacos, fried rice, huli huli with pineapple and teriyaki sauce and Thai noodle pho in a chicken broth.
Soup’s On
Ramen and pho are two of the trendiest Asian dishes, and slurping is acceptable in many of Delaware’s Asian restaurants.
Ramen, which originated in Japan, includes springy wheat noodles that vary in thickness depending on the restaurant’s influences. The appeal comes from colorful toppings such as sliced pork, dried seaweed, bamboo shoots, scallion, radishes and a seasoned boiled egg. An artful arrangement is a must.
The broth is another source of pride. Ramen Kumamoto’s broth simmers for two days for a rich, complex flavor. The downtown Newark restaurant has meat and vegetarian options. Udon, a fish broth with thick noodles, is a featured dish.
Yokai Ramen Bistro in Brandywine Hundred has 10 types of ramen. Do you prefer rice over noodles? Try donburi, a rice bowl with different meats and veggies.
Wilmington’s DE.CO is also home to Rebel Ramen, which offers composed ramen bowls. Or you can build one with a choice of broths (pork bone, miso or vegetable), protein and toppings.
In Middletown, Shaka Ramen has a contemporary vibe and more than 10 types of ramen. You’ll also find rice bowls and milk tea, a mix of tea and milk common in Asia. At Shaka Ramen, flavors include matcha, Brown sugar, taro and coffee.
Vietnamese pho (pronounced “fuh”) is a street food staple consisting of rice noodles and a protein, traditionally thinly sliced beef. The broth is light, and lively accompaniments include Thai basil, bean sprouts, lime wedges and bean sprouts. Many local restaurants add jalapenos.
Even small pho restaurants offer non-broth dishes. For instance, Pho Cali has entrees made with rice or noodles. orderphocali.com. And Pho Bami Vietnamese Cuisine in Brandywine Hundred boasts banh mi, the Vietnamese “hoagie” on French bread. Options include bologna, pork belly, sausage, shrimp and beef wrapped in grape leaves.
The cleverly named Pho Ever Café in Newark features pho, banh mi and American-friendly entrees such as soft-shell crab with rice and, interestingly, pizza. phoevermenu.com. Also in Newark, vPho features pho made with a 12-hour stock. However, pad Thai, bulgogi and wonton soup are also on the menu.
Did we miss some? No doubt. Quick-serve teriyaki spots, for instance, are becoming common in suburban shopping centers, and fusion is fast and furious. Fortunately, when it comes to Asian cuisine, the more the merrier.